Questions about Egypt: Part 3

(18) Tell me something I don't know about Cairo that I haven't asked you yet!
Cairo is all about the people. Even though it has changed dramatically, even in just the last ten years, there will always be something indefinable about Egyptians. I’m not even sure what it is, because, well, it’s indefinable; it’s something you have to experience locally. There is a lot of unhappiness here these days, with the state of the government, the economy, the widespread suffering. And it’s noticeable in the people, who don’t have the same level of joie de vivre that they have had in the past. But even with all of this, there is still a certain level of fervour in the way life is lived that I haven’t experienced anywhere else. Egypt has been through a lot, but she always bounces back, and she will this time too.

(19) Are the boys speaking mainly Arabic or English?
They are definitely speaking more Arabic. They really only speak English at home with me and Arabic with everyone else, including their school friends, street friends, shopkeepers, grandparents and taxi drivers. I discourage them from speaking English whenever I can… it’s not like they need the practice. They frequently translate for me when people speak too quickly for me to catch the details of what they are saying. I often speak Arabic with the kids when we are out because I have found it makes things a little easier as a foreign woman if men know that you aren’t a ‘new arrival’ in the country and have some understanding of the culture.

(20) What is the standard of living there?
It is extremely varied. There are people living in abject poverty and others at the opposite end of the spectrum who are filthy rich. There is a lot of money in Egypt, but unfortunately it doesn’t get shared around fairly, for various reasons, well one major reason… but I won’t get into politics because I really don’t know much about it. But there is no balance at all. Sometimes I will be in the middle of negotiating with a taxi driver about my fare… Foreigners always get charged more (which seems fair enough), as do women (which is definitely not fair) …Anyway, there have been times when I have been in the midst of protesting if a taxi driver asks for more money (because that’s the habit one defaults to here), when I think, What are you doing? This is nothing to you, this five pounds. And it could be everything to him.

Because of the culture, there is also no welfare system in place to assist those with nothing, except bread subsidies, and even those have been under threat. The welfare system as we know it just doesn’t exist in Egypt, because it is expected that people will be taken care of by their families; there is a very intricate system outlined in Islam about this which is supposed to be followed here.

(21) What are the boys enjoying most about being back in Cairo?
Well, Nazar would say the overabundance of cats in the streets—he’s in cat heaven, even though he’s not allowed to touch them. Not that my prohibition is much of a deterrent for him. Ziad would say the Pyramids and going to Khan al-Khalili markets.

Some other things they enjoy: Having many other kids in the building to play with; going to the small grocery store right next door on their own to buy things; being able to walk to school; hailing taxis, saying where we want to go, and paying the fare at the end; the amazingly sweet oranges; aish baladi (Egyptian bread similar to whole wheat pita but much rougher and much tastier); ghazl banat (fairy floss bought from a man who walks the streets with his cart).

But really I think what they love the most is the interactive existence they have here. They fraternize with everyone, from the men in the shop next door, to the neighbours and bawab’s (doorman’s) kids.

(22) What is something new that you've experienced this trip?
Well, the joy of pomegranates, as evidenced by my previous post. And having the vegetable seller chopping up the vegetables for me into little cubes to make torli, which is a tomato-based vegetable casserole type of dish made with potato, carrot, onion, zucchini, and probably any other vegetable you happen to have on hand. That was a delightful, time-saving discovery for me that kept me happy for two days. And the other thing I have noticed—and perhaps the most satisfying for me—is that because my Arabic has improved, I am able to catch more of the local humour. Not all of it—there’s still a lot that flies straight over my heard—but definitely more of it!

(23) What is the thing they most want to do when they're not in school?
We really just hang out. They will often play with their new friends in the neighbourhood which I encourage because they can learn ‘street Arabic’. It’s great to see them with their little friends, slapping their hands and putting their arms around each other. Men and boys here are not afraid to show affection for each other and it’s usual for them to walk down the street holding hands or with their arms slung around each other, something that would obviously raise eyebrows in the West.

(24) Are you able to get out of Cairo for breaks and if so, how often can you do this?
In theory, yes, it is quite easy to get out of Cairo for the weekend or a few days. There are many places to go, depending what you like to do. There’s Alexandria just a couple of hours away by train, the North Coast, Suez, the Sinai... Geographically, Egypt is in the centre of the world, so many places are accessible outside the country as well, if one has the time, the money and the inclination to travel further, especially to Europe, Afria or the rest of the Middle East.

(25) Is there a lot of "Can so-and-so come over after school?" or is this not a cultural thing?
No, this doesn’t happen at all, at least not in my experience.

(26) What typically Australian thing are the boys missing?
They adapt fairly easily between Cairo and Sydney now, so aren’t missing much. They sometimes miss their Australian friends… and when we are in Australia they miss their Egyptian friends!