Don't assume; just ask! Questions about Egypt: part 1

How much we assume about people... the positive and the negative, the big and the small, the unusual and the mundane. When we only have a portion of the truth it is often easier to fill in the gaps with assumptions. It's the easy way out, the lazy way, the way that requires no real observation, no real enquiry, and no real thought. We've all been guilty of it. You believe what you choose to believe, what other people (media or otherwise) would have you believe, or what is easiest for you to believe. It is the path of least resistance, the path of assumption that results in a kind of typecasting... of individuals, of countries, of cultures. But things are not always as they appear.

And so... my point being... I wish more people would take the time to ask questions, whatever the subject, and whoever is on the other end of them. It would clear up so many misconceptions. A friend of mine in Australia has been sending me questions to answer about Egypt and, while my answers may not be the same as the next person's, here are a few of my answers to her "Fifty questions for Emily". I'm just happy someone is asking:

(1) Are there camels where you are?
There are no camels where I live, but at the Pyramids there are plenty! They are about 45 mins away, on the other side of Cairo to us. (I guess that would be the sister question to "Are there kangaroos hopping down Sydney streets? ")

(2) I saw a story the other day about Egypt banning the veil in women-only areas. So... do you have to wear the burqa/veil while outside?
From what I read, that story was taken out of context and misquoted. My understanding was that Sheikh Tantawi was saying that women don't need to wear niqab (the full veil with only the eyes showing, which is not that common here in Egypt) if they are in a women-only class at university without any men present. I think he suggested that in residential areas of universities, women wearing niqab be required to show their faces for identification purposes if asked, as apparently there have been instances of men wearing it to sneak inside.

I don't have to wear any kind of head covering at all in Egypt. But I do dress modestly and respect the culture... most of the time I dress the same way I would in Australia: jeans and a t-shirt. You can pretty much wear what you like in Cairo, but if you show your legs above the knee or cleavage or shoulders you will get hassled by men. A lot of tourists dress inappropriately for the culture here, which irritates me as it is disrespectful and, in my opinion, rather boorish.

(3) If "yes" to question 2, how do you feel about that?
Personally, the niqab is not a concept that I am comfortable with. But I also feel that it is a woman's right to choose to wear it if she believes it is the right thing to do - and if she has chosen it for herself in the absence of pressure from anyone else. Most Muslim women here only hear a headscarf, and the younger generations often wear that with jeans and tight-fitting clothes. Each to their own. I would find niqab very restrictive, although there are times when the anonymity would be nice! I don't know if I would choose to live in a place where I was legally required to wear a particular piece of clothing, no matter what it was. But in Egypt, covering your head - or your whole body - is an option and not a governmental requirement.

(4) Do you and the boys celebrate Christmas there?
Yes, we do celebrate Christmas. But it's not a religious celebration for us so much as just fun for the kids and a chance to get together with friends. Although I guess it is religious in the sense that it is Jesus's birthday; but for Muslims, Jesus is a prophet and not the son of God. The Coptic Christians here actually celebrate Christmas on 7 January, but we stick to 25 December. I think Santa Claus comes on both days.

(5) Is there anything you can't get in Egypt that you're missing?
These days you can buy most things in Cairo. I do miss the convenience of things that allow me to be lazy and cut corners, like buying pre-packaged salad! But that is probably a good thing. You can't buy Vegemite (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vegemite) here, as far as I know, but I brought a good supply with me. Also, cheap paints and canvases for the kids to create their masterpieces on. And I really miss not having my car. It's exhausting getting around Cairo with small kids without one.

(6) Do they have big shopping centres like Westfields?
Yes, there are big Western-style malls here just like in Australia... glitzy, glamorous, and overpriced, with escalators that make me feel ill due to the low side rails. I don't really tend to go to them much though, unless there is something specific that I need. Last time I went to City Stars, a gargantuan mall here, the boys went a little crazy after drinking 7Up and tried to jump in the water fountain, so I generally try to avoid enclosed spaces as much as I can.

(7) Have you got any good lentil recipes I can have?
You have to try koshari, which is lentils, macaroni and rice with a tomato-based sauce. Koshari is Egyptian fast food and so tasty. Try this recipe: http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/mar/03/traditional-koshari

(8) In light of traffic in Cairo, how do you get around?
I walk or take taxis. I would like to drive here, but I don't have a car. The best time to get anywhere quickly is Friday mornings before pray time, when the streets are virtually empty.

(9) Tell me about the areas you like going to.
I like going to the markets, and Old Cairo. And I love going to some of the beautiful mosques such as Al Azhar and Ibn Tulun, where you can just be still for a while. The pyramids amaze me every time I go, and are most beautiful at sunset when most of the people have left. If you speak a bit of Arabic to the security guards, if you are lucky they let you stay a bit longer past closing time. But one of the best places to be in Cairo is just at home after you've been out battling the bedlam for hours... a little sanctuary in the midst of all the chaos.